I was having a wee wander through Buchanan Galleries the other day, just taking in the sights of the city centre, when I noticed a couple of new spots had popped up. American-inspired, apparently. Philly Express and American Dirty Soda, they call them. My first thought, I must admit, was a bit of a sigh. Do we really need more American fast food in Glasgow, or indeed, anywhere in Scotland?
Now, I’m not one to knock a good feed, and I know folks love a bit of novelty. Philly Express is offering what they call ‘legendary Philly cheesesteaks’ and ‘crispy buttermilk fried chicken’. They’ve got chicken fingers, Texas toast, loaded fries, mac and cheese, and American-style hot dogs too. Right next door, American Dirty Soda lets you concoct your own soft drinks with flavour add-ins and creamy finishes. It sounds like a sugar rush and a half, if I’m being honest.
Gloria Agha, the manager at Philly Express, seems quite chuffed about it all. She said: “Buchanan Galleries is a standout city-centre location, and we’re excited to bring our legendary Philly Cheesesteaks and our fresh hand-battered buttermilk fried chicken to visitors. For anyone craving big flavours with fast, convenient service, and with American Dirty Soda next door to create the ultimate food-and-drink destination, it promises to be a truly delicious experience.” Kathy Murdoch, the centre director for Buchanan Galleries, echoed that enthusiasm, saying: “We’re excited to welcome Philly Express and American Dirty Soda to our lineup, bringing their bold, flavour-packed menus to our visitors. We’re passionate about creating a dynamic, welcoming destination where families can enjoy a full day of shopping alongside great food and drink. With their iconic American-inspired menu, we’re confident it will be a great addition for those looking for a quick lunch break, a post-shopping refuel or a well-earned treat.”
I hear what they’re saying. Convenience, big flavours, a treat. But my mind can’t help but drift to our own magnificent larder. Scotland, after all, is a nation with a truly rich food heritage. We’ve got our world-renowned seafood, our fantastic beef, and our glorious tatties, not to mention the burgeoning craft food scene. We’re seeing a real food renaissance across Scotland, moving well beyond the stereotypes of haggis and deep-fried Mars bars. There’s so much more to explore in Scottish food and drink, from high dining to simple, honest, delicious pub grub. Is a Philly cheesesteak really what we need to add to that vibrant mix?
I worry a bit about the constant march of Americanisation on our high streets. It feels like every second establishment is another burger joint or a place selling loaded fries. While I understand the appeal of a quick, satisfying bite, I also think about the health implications. We’re a nation that already faces significant challenges with diet and lifestyle. Adding more options for highly processed, calorie-dense foods, even if they’re a ‘treat’, doesn’t feel like it’s pulling us in the right direction. The NHS has plenty of advice on healthy eating, and I don’t think custom-made sugary sodas are high on their list of recommendations.
Glasgow, in particular, has such a strong character and a unique culinary identity. I’ve seen some fantastic local businesses thrive, offering everything from traditional Scottish fare to brilliant international cuisine. I often wonder if the space given to these large, often chain-affiliated, American imports could instead be used to champion local producers, local chefs, and local tastes. It’s not just about what we eat, but who we support when we spend our hard-earned cash.
And let’s not forget about sustainability. With so much talk about food waste and environmental impact, I always question the supply chains of these global brands. Glasgow itself has some excellent initiatives to divert food waste from landfill, which shows a real commitment to responsible consumption. Does bringing in more of these ‘big flavour’, fast-turnaround options align with that ethos, or does it push us further towards a less sustainable model?
Ultimately, people will vote with their feet, and their wallets. If these new places are packed to the rafters, then fair enough, I suppose. But I hope that Glaswegians, and Scots in general, don’t forget the incredible variety and quality of food we already have right on our doorstep. I’m not saying we should shut ourselves off from the world, far from it. But a bit of balance, a bit of thought about what truly nourishes us, and what truly represents our culture, wouldn’t go amiss. Sometimes, the best flavours are the ones we’ve cultivated ourselves, right here at home.
Source: News articles from various Scottish outlets, June 2024.