I’ve lived in Edinburgh long enough to know that the tourists flooding the Royal Mile have absolutely no idea where the real city happens. They’re queuing for overpriced whisky tastings while locals are tucked into corners of this city that guidebooks seem to miss entirely.
Let me take you to the Edinburgh I know — the one that comes alive after the castle floodlights switch on.
The jazz bars you’ll never stumble upon
The Jazz Bar on Chambers Street is so far underground you’ll think you’ve taken a wrong turn into someone’s basement. Which, to be fair, you essentially have. This is where Edinburgh’s music lovers have been gathering for decades, packed into a cavern that gets so sweaty by midnight you’ll wish you’d worn less.
I’ve seen some of Scotland’s finest musicians share that tiny stage with international artists you’d pay £50 to see at a proper venue. Here? A fiver gets you in, and the whisky’s reasonably priced. For Edinburgh, that’s practically charity.
Henry’s Cellar Bar in Morrison Street is another one the tourists miss. Sticky floors, questionable ventilation, and some of the best live music nights in the city.
Where Edinburgh actually eats
I’m not sending you to The Witchery or any of those Old Town restaurants that charge £40 for a steak. Locals eat at Mother India’s Cafe in Infirmary Street, where the tapas-style Indian food costs a fraction of what you’d pay on George Street and tastes infinitely better.
The Stockbridge Restaurant is my go-to when I want something special without the tourist markup. Tiny place, changes its menu constantly, and the chef actually comes out to chat.
The casino scene tourists never discover
Here’s something that surprises visitors — Edinburgh has a thriving casino scene that’s nothing like the glitzy London establishments. The Grosvenor Casino on Maybury Road is where I’ve spent more Friday nights than I probably should admit to my accountant.
It’s not about the gambling, really — though I do enjoy a hand or two of blackjack when I’m feeling lucky. It’s the whole atmosphere. The Grosvenor has a proper restaurant, a bar that stays open late, and a crowd that’s refreshingly mixed. You’ll find students testing their poker skills next to retired couples enjoying their pension day out.
The Genting Casino in York Place is smaller, more tucked away, and feels like a proper locals’ spot. It’s where I go when I want a quieter evening — electronic roulette, a few cocktails, and the kind of low-key entertainment that doesn’t require shouting over music.
Both venues host poker tournaments that pull in a serious crowd. I’m terrible at poker — my face gives everything away — but watching the regulars play is entertainment in itself.
Live music beyond the obvious
Everyone knows about the Usher Hall and the Playhouse, but Summerhall is where Edinburgh’s experimental music scene thrives. It’s an old veterinary school turned arts venue, and the acoustics in some of those rooms are accidentally perfect.
For folk music that isn’t performed for tourists, Sandy Bell’s on Forrest Road has sessions most nights. Real musicians, real instruments, and an atmosphere that feels like stepping into Edinburgh’s actual soul.
The cocktail bars worth the price
Panda & Sons on Queen Street is hidden behind a barber shop door, speakeasy-style, and serves cocktails that justify their £12 price tag. Bramble, tucked down a close off Victoria Street, is where I take visitors who insist they want to experience Edinburgh nightlife.
Edinburgh reveals itself slowly. The tourists get the castle and the Royal Mile. The rest of us get everything else — the basement jazz clubs, the casino nights, the restaurants in unexpected closes. That’s the Edinburgh worth knowing.
By Fiona MacLeod | 14 September 2025